Re: Installing Rotor to Hub?

["Bill Thebert" <bthebert@domain.elided>]

-----Original Message-----
From: John A. Landry <jlandry@domain.elided>
Subject: Installing Rotor to Hub?


>I'm wondering if it would be an acceptable practice to simply swap hubs but
>keep the same rotor?

Sure.  As long as both hub and rotor are in good condition, there's no reaon
you can't do what you describe.

>So do I just press out the studs, swap the rotors and press
>the studs back in?

Yep.  The knurled studs are the only thing holding the two pieces
together -- until the wheel is attached, of course.  The wheel and lug nuts
are what *really* holds the assembly together, I suppose.  The press-fit of
the studs through the rotor and into the hub just keeps the studs in place
while the wheel is positioned.  Check the condition of the studs and replace
as needed.  Sometimes with the second or third insertion of studs into the
same hub, even brand NEW studs won't get enough "bite" to firmly hold the
hub & rotor together.  The knurled studs are harder than the comparatively
soft hub.

>Can I get by with simply doing the swap and not bother
>with having to turn the rotor again?

Be sure to compulsively clean the two mating surfaces -- outboard face of
the rotor and inboard face of the hub.  Rust, dirt, or surface imperfections
will prevent proper alignment.

>John H. and I talked about this situation on the telephone, and he recalls
>installing *new* rotors and not having to turn them afterwards.  Is that a
>common and accepted practice?

Even when mounting brand NEW rotors on brand NEW hubs (as I did this summer
with the Warn Front Hub Conversion Kit) I slapped them onto the brake lathe
for a quick check.  A runout check with a dial indicator (once remounted
onto the spindles) would serve the same purpose.

Bill Thebert