Re: [ihc] 4WD to 2WD springs - lift, hangers

[Tom Mandera <tsm1@xxxxxxxxx>]

Jim Grammer wrote:

> Assuming that your existing springs and the 2WD springs both have
> approximately the original arch, you should have roughly the same result I
> had: the axle mounting point on the springs will move down just about 2.5".
I may have to adjust my "lift estimates" for Chevy springs then.

I reverse engineered things around, starting with the front axle weight 
of my 1110 4x4 Travelall, a good guess at the factory spring rate (taken 
from a table of spring rates offered), and that my front springs sit 
pretty much flat at-rest.

I then worked the same weight against a few common Chevy 4" lift spring 
spring-rates and came up with about a 2" arch left in the Chevy springs 
at-rest.

I did NOT take into account the change from the 4x4 to the 2x4 spring 
hanger positions, and any lift netted just from that move.

Sounds like you might actually see 4" of lift from a 4" Chevy lift, when 
you combine the arch of the springs with the drop of the hangers.


> is a guess based on the observed angles in my conversion, but I suspect
> you'll be OK. Much beyond this, and I'd wish for an open knuckle axle that
> could use a raised steering arm.
FWIW, I do believe you can do a cross-over steering or raised-arm setup 
on a closed-knuckle front end.  You'll just find a lot less aftermarket 
support for the modification.


> switch to urethane bushings('70's Dodge application). Not much you can do
> about the dimples in the fixed mount without re-engineering/fabbing or
> welding up the dimples. IIRC upgrading to 1/2 bolts lets you run the sleeves
On my 4x4 swap for my Travelette.. since I'm using a Dodge front axle 
and the spring spacing is, IIRC, 1" farther apart than a stock IH, I 
intend to "shim" the back side of the outer half of the front fixed 
spring hanger by welding a piece of 1/2" stock to the back.

On the inner side, the easiest "fix" is to start with a piece of ~3x2 
angle.  Use the longer "leg" of one side to space the hanger outboard 
the extra 1/2", use the other leg to clamp the spring.

I mention this because the inboard side of the fixed hanger could have 
the dimple eliminated very easily by substituting a piece of angle (with 
appropriate holes) in place of the dimpled-angle the factory used.

The outer hanger would be a little more interesting to remove the dimple.

-Tom